This blog focuses on logistics of a trip completed in January 2022. Apologies to anyone hoping for a bit of light entertainment!
Friday
Overnight at Mangaweka campground. $9 per person (current as at 14 January 2022). Non-bookable, first come first served basic campsite with flush toilets, river for swimming, and a small (4 walled with roof) cooking shelter with drinking water, lighting, and electricity. 210km from Wellington Station. There are cabins also available. https://www.mangaweka.co.nz/
View on the tops
Saturday
Drive 26km / 30 minutes to the track carpark, most of which is on a gravel road. The lower carpark has a long drop toilet, the upper carpark does not, it’s less than 5 minutes’ walk between the two carparks.
After 3.5 DOC hours you reach a junction (this section took us 2.5 hours) to either Rangiwahia Hut or Triangle Hut. We turned off to Triangle Hut and dropped packs (taking water, lunch, PLB’s and first aid kits, etc) 5 minutes from the junction. Triangle Hut is more or less 2 hours each way, in rather steep terrain – nearly 700m descent. Getting to the hut involves a river crossing, which provides a great opportunity to swim.
Triangle Hut
Once back at the junction it is 2 DOC hours (we took 1) to Rangiwahia Hut.
We departed the carpark at 7.45am and arrived at Rangiwahia Hut at 4.45pm. We had an hour at Triangle Hut and two half hour breaks near the junction, plus several view stops along the way. It was a leisurely 9-hour day (10 – 12 DOC hours). However the weather was perfect.
Haurangi Hut is a great hut in the Orongrongos (Remutaka Forest Park) which needs to be booked in advance. This means it is great for groups and for new trampers without lots of gear (the hut has gas stoves and being bookable there is no need to carry bedrolls and shelters). See https://bookings.doc.govt.nz/saturn/ for bookings.
Haurangi Hut
The hut is 2-3 hours walk from the carpark with no river crossings. We left Wellington Station at 4pm arriving at the carpark in time for a 5pm departure. The walk in was steady, scenic and didn’t require a headtorch after all.
We had a social Friday night sharing snacks and wine while planning walks for the following day.
On Saturday we split in to two groups, one heading to Mount Matthews and the rest exploring Whakanui and Clay Ridge Tracks to return to the carpark. I was in the Mount Matthews group so the following outlines Mt Matthews.
Heading up Mt Matthews
Four of us headed up Mt Matthews, three of us with the intention of getting to the summit (941m), the fourth the intention of getting to the clearing before the summit. To summit Mt Matthews you need to cross the river, so ensure you check river levels if undertaking this trip.
Clearing on the way up at ~ 600mView from Mt Matthews (Ocean Beach and Lake Ferry)
We set off at a cracking pace and all made our goals in reasonable time. We returned to the carpark following the river rather than the bush walk we had taken the previous evening. Once we arrived at Turere Bridge two of us decided to return via Cattle Ridge rather than the Orongorongo track.
We returned to the carpark to find we had bet the other team. We didnt need to wait long for them to emerge from the bush. The trips took approx 8-9 hours.
Overall a great Friday night trip and following day for a great mix of newbie and experienced trampers.
After 5 reschedules over 3 summers I finally covered the small section of the Southern Crossing I hadn’t competed. It was certainly worth the wait – we couldn’t have asked for better conditions.
We were collected from Waikanae Train station at 3.15pm and dropped at Otaki Forks by Kapiti coast shuttles ($100 for a car or 150 for a van as at Jan 2020).
We arrived at Kime Hut just in time for sunset. It always surprises me how much quicker you travel with a small group (2!). It was cold on Bridge Peak so the down jackets got used day 1.
Sunset from bridge peak
There were only 2 others in hut, they were doing the TA – taking the more exciting route as they put it (I agree).
Kime Hut
Saturday we awoke early for sunrise and watched from field peak. We returned to kime and had a leisurely breakfast. Another stunning day with little wind.
Sunrise from field peak
After a day of perfect 360° views, we arrived at alpha hut early afternoon and chatted to those passing through (including runners training for the southern crossing run) and some familiar faces camping and staying in the hut.
mt hector
We waited for friends to arrive realising we didnt know what time they left Kaitoke or when to expect them (lesson learnt). They arrived grateful for a full water tank, it had been a sweltering day on Marchant.
We had a peaceful night other than an earthquake! There is service in one corner of the balcony so we were able to find info on geonet before returning to civilization.
Down Marchant Ridge always takes far longer than I remember, this day was no different. We took a 2 min detour towards bull mound where the track opens up and you get views of ridges all around you.
View from a short detour towards Bull Mound
Once back at the car the consensus was to stop at Brewtown for a pint.
Note no times listed as we had perfect conditions and a small fit group.
I highly recommend kapiti coast shuttles for transportation on the Western side of Tararuas.
For the second time we successfully booked the entire 32 bunk Powell Hut. The plan was to complete the Jumbo Holdsworth loop, however the weather wasn’t playing ball. We wound up with 3 groups, 3 hardly souls tackling the circuit, 18 East Holdsworth, and 5 Gentle Annie. The remainder had dropped out earlier in the week.
Huge thanks to Cliff, Bang and Vignesh for the blog posts on Gentle Annie, the circuit and East Holdsworth.
So Marty says I’ve booked you a bed in the hut, don’t worry we are doing the easy route and can take our time, and girlfriend coming with us. Thought I was reasonably fit despite covid blocking my gym work in UK and I have put on a few kilos. I did Atiwhakatu walk last August no issues, apart from no lights and a nasty long drop, and Marty said this hut is awesome.
Got woken up at 6 am Saturday morning and rushed out. Picked up Teresa who seemed to believe I had had a leg blown off by a landmine in Vietnam.
Got to Tararuas where Laressa pretended to do a count. 5 of us went on Gentle Annie, wouldn’t want to meet her big sister Hard as Annie.
Got to Rocky Lookout, just, Marty said look at view and I went I need water. He took my pack as well as his and we made it to Mountain House Shelter.
Marty said no way he could do 2 packs up the steps so I manned up, I have never so felt so close to death, my heart beating through my chest, I had to stop every 5 metres, but I would not let it beat me.
We turned a corner and Marty said not far now, but I didn’t believe him, worst was the 3 sets of steps.
Got there and Marty said lets do 1 hour to summit, my reply is unprintable.
Went to bunk to recover, couldn’t / didn’t sleep due to chatter, didn’t want to sleep as I would have woken at silly oclock.
Great meal even though rice gate scandal and extra votes/ meals found.
Walked out in rain , not as bad as forecast. Marty said don’t walk on clay but it seemed easiest. I slipped and turtled, couldn’t even get up!
Over a week later and I still cant walk down stairs.
Photo credit: Maj-Britt
Team Circuit, by Bang
Despite the unpromising weather, five of us (Julian, Alex, Byrus – the Shit Weasel, Mr Grey and me) still decided to do the Mt Holdsworth – Jumbo Circuit counter clockwise. We departed right after the big group gathering.
Laressa’s kick-off speech
The walk from Holdsworth carpark to Atiwhakatu Hut was fairly smooth and easy, and it was good to have a warm up along with some “Adult Jokes”. It took us 1.5 hours to reach Atiwhakatu Hut, where we had a short snack break and I introduced the team to some dried olives. Alex and Julian seemed to like them, but they disagreed with my idea that the olive is a type of fruit. The next 750m of climbing from Atiwhakatu Hut to Jumbo Hut (the Raingauge Spur Track) was a typical Tararua climb, quite steep but lots of fun.
Raingauge Spur Track
Alex and Julian were ahead of me, and I spent 1 hr 50 mins to get to Jumbo Hut. When I arrived they had already managed to get Byrus drunk, somehow.
A very drunk Byrus
The weather was getting worse after lunch, and we had a quick gear up before heading off to Powell Hut. As we walked on the ridge, the wind was getting stronger too, I had to stop and wipe the raindrops off my glasses now and then to see the track.
Julian and Alex tried not to walk too fast all the way to give me some company, how nice they are! After walking for about 1.5 hours we met part of Team East Holdsworth somewhere close to the Mt Holdsworth Summit. The rain stopped for the last part of our walk, and we made it to Powell Hut at about 4pm. The trip from Jumbo to Powell took me 2 hrs 30 mins.
In the mist
Brief summary of East Holdsworth: The large group (18) naturally split in to smaller groups with the lead group arriving at Powell Hut in 5 hours, the last group arriving after 7 hours.
Photo credit: Jude
East Holdsworth – contribution by Vignesh
Nostalgia is how I would describe the rationale for doing this hike. If my memory serves correctly, it was two years ago when Laressa organised the Powell hut round trip last time. It was a long trip going up and down yet it was such a lovely trip. I remember meeting Marty and Peter in that trip.
The previous day, I was packing my bag. I knew that I don’t have to carry too much as our trip lead was offering dinner as part of this trip. Nevertheless, I packed my bag with extra food, gas canister and the rest of it.
Saturday began early for me as I was picked up right in front of my house at around 6.30 am by Alex and Sarah, which was a bit of luxury, Thanks Alex :-). It gets even better as the people mover was comfy like a first class trip with inflight serving of fresh strawberries (thanks Sarah). Sarah and I started chit chatting about our daily lives and the talk veered off to work and somehow ended up talking about doing research, insightful conversations. Throughout the drive Alex was a silent spectator, may be cursing himself for giving me a ride 😦
Our first decent stop was at a café in Featherston where we met some of our fellow hikers Maj-britt, Tiffany and Deborah. After the customary hugs, I went to the lovely bakery and got an almond croissant, which was delicious. Alex got his coffee and brekkie and then we drove off without spending too much time. We reached the Holdsworth car park just before 8.30 am to keep up the word to our esteemed trip leader. As we caught up with the group, our trip lead started dishing out the dinner packs to carry to the hut, which she prepared for the whole group. I need another blog to elaborate on Laressa’s cooking skills.
There are three popular tracks leading to Powell hut and few people interested in taking each of the tracks. Since I have walked two of the tracks before, I decided to take east Holdsworth walk this time. I did not realise our trip lead would also be going with us on this track as I assumed she would take the long Jumbo hut track. This made my walk much easier as a day or two prior to the trip, I was shoulder tapped to lead the east Holdsworth track. Given our trip lead was with us I was not expected to do much, which was quite nice.
Anyway, a small group decided to head straight to the hut through the Gentle Annie track and three of the hard-core trampers decided to do the hard way by taking the Jumbo hut track. But a large (loud) group of us chose to do the east Holdsworth track.
We started at around 9 am from the car park heading towards Atiwhakatu hut. I decided that I should lead from the front at least when the track the flat (heehee). Just before the last swing bridge we met a couple of hikers coming in the opposite direction. One of the hikers resembled an Allblack, but we sort of concluded before they came near us that it wasn’t him. Me being me, I started a conversation with the folks who came across. They said that the east Holdsworth track was closed so they decided to return. Luckily, our own navigator Shayne was with us, who with authority pronounced that it is not a problem and an alternate track is not too far from the sign board. Sure, enough when we reached the east Holdsworth junction, we found the diversion sign to the track.
As we were waiting for the rest of the group to arrive, Tiffany suggested that we should go ahead and she could wait there with few others. I happily took on board her suggestion and started walking up the hill. As Shayne was walking just behind me, I thought it was the right time to let Shayne take the lead and generously let him along with Nikolo and Cara to go past. In the next 5 minutes or so they all disappeared and was walking with Carla till I reached the open. Along the way Jude, Tiffany, Talia and Paul overtook us and disappeared into the forest. As we were going up, it was getting windier and still had a nicer feel to the walk. Carla took all the time in the world to fill up her smartphone with lovely pictures including me 🙂 ( I am sure she would have discarded most of the snaps with my face :-(). We decided to take a break and have lunch around 12.30 that was just before reaching the tops. As we were having our lunch, Scott, Linda, Bharat and a couple of newbies caught up with us. Once we finished our lunch, Carla and I started walking up slowly (what do you expect after a lunch), we caught up with Scott & Linda who were taking their lunch. As we reached the tops, we could see a couple sitting next to a big rock. We thought they were taking their break and enjoying the scenery. As we closed in, I realised it was Paul and Talia who decided to return and wait for others as they thought it was too windy to go further.
I was scanning the place and started examining the weather. I could feel the heavy winds and the thick clouds coming towards us. But I still did not find that to be that bad to go up. I said to them that I will go up further and check the condition. As I went up, it was getting windier and visibility was only up to 8 meters or so but not too bad to halt. I could still see Carla a bit far behind me taking snaps. I thought perhaps I could go up a bit and get Carla to come to me. After reaching the next top, I couldn’t see Carla from there. I waited for another 10 minutes for Carla to arrive unfortunately I couldn’t see or hear from her. I decided to wait rather than go up as I knew it wouldn’t be wise to move leaving people behind. In the next 5 minutes, for a split second the clouds cleared, and I could see our group walking like a bee line. It gave me the signal to start walking. The track was getting narrower, but I did not find it to be dangerous to walk. In the next 15 minutes or so I reached the T-junction and the signage to Holdsworth trig and the Powell.
I could feel the strong winds in the open and it picked up strength well and truly. It was pushing me towards the edge of the spear. I skilfully managed to navigate with the double confirmation of the track as well the poles. All along I could hear people talking behind me but couldn’t see a thing. As I reached the next T-junction to the Holdsworth trig and the Powell Hut, I decided it wasn’t the day for photo-op and decided to go straight to the hut. As I was halfway through, I could see someone coming up the opposite direction. As the distance the lessened, I noticed it was Sarah the brave heart going up to the trig. We confirmed our intentions and went the opposite direction. I reached the hut around 3 pm, I could see our group well settled in. As time went by the rest of the group trickled in and the atmosphere changed for good. Most of them were busy sorting out the rooms, having a snack, drying their cloths and sitting next to the heater. I opened my pack and grabbed the soup pack. I felt so good sipping the hot soup after the long walk. Just after 6 pm, the dinner packs were out, and the preparation was well underway to cook the dinner. We all had a hearty meal and a mouthful of dessert. You don’t go hungry when Laressa is around 🙂
Next day, I got up early and sat down having the hot readymade coffee. I bumped into Alex, who hinted at leaving the hut early. I obediently took note of the hint and packed up quickly after my breakfast. We were the first to leave the hut after hesitantly saying good bye to the rest of group. We pushed on briskly and in no time reached the mountain shelter. At the shelter I took a few minutes to pull the water tube that was stuck in the bag. Once I managed to organise my bag, we started walking down the hill. It was a bit drizzly, which didn’t both us much. In the next couple of hours we were back in the carpark. I got changed and we happily drove back to Wellington and reached home just after 12 noon.
With an unexpected week off work I found out a friend also had the week off. We headed in to the Tararuas on a Wednesday planning to leave on Friday, before the crowds of the weekend.
We set off to Alpha Hut stopping at various points along Marchant Ridge to take in the views. The weather was great and we had stunning views of the Hutt Valley and the peaks further north.
View from Marchant Ridge
After a day of straight up we arrived at the hut in just over 6 hours – the benefit of a small group! We were the only ones at Alpha Hut, which is large, so it was cold. After flicking through all the magazines and reading material in the hut and dinner we turned in for an early night.
Day two we rose early and left most of our gear behind to head up to Mount Alpha. It was snowing and we had a lot less visibility than the day before. After crossing a few mounds and being sure one of them was Alpha we checked a GPS to confirm. We had gone too far so headed back to the hut, round trip about 1.5 hours.
Day 2 – Adam heading towards Alpha
We collected the rest of our gear from Alpha Hut and headed back the way we came the day before till we came to the Bull Mound turn off. We had been in goblin forest for a long time and to our surprise emerged to alpine grasslands and stunning wide spanning views. Whenever I return to Alpha now I will ensure I take a small detour to barren Bull Mound for the views.
Between Alpha Hut and Bull Mound turn off
We carried on down, entering forest again. It was rather steep, and I couldn’t help thinking I’d rather go down than up, although some may disagree! Eventually we arrived at a river that we needed to cross. After observing the river and assessing all options we crossed and not long after came to Cone Hut.
We arrived really early (around lunchtime) but decided to stay at historic Cone Hut as neither of us had before. All I can say is tie your food bag tight and store out of your pack, and keep a head torch handy to scare away the rats! It was a cosy, pleasant hut to stay in.
The last day of our journey we headed out along Tauherenikau River. We stopped in briefly at Tutuwai Hut and Smith’s Creek Shelter. After the shelter we encountered our first person since entering the bush.
Tauherenikau River
Although a hot day the clay on the Puffer Saddle was very slippery (it had rained in the afternoon of the day prior) and we heard the sound of chainsaws as some DOC workers were doing track maintenance. After encountering our second and third person we arrived at the carpark to find a group of teens setting off for Holdsworth as part of the Duke of Ed.
Overall an excellent, leisurely 3 day trip which could be done in 2 long days. This trip highlighted to me how few people tramp midweek. Of the 3 huts we stopped at there had been no hut book entries since the weekend prior.
Note: trip took place late Septmber 2018
Logistics Park at Kiwi Ranch Road Day 1 walk to Alpha Hut, 6 hours (expect 7-9 hours with a larger group). Day 2 walk to Cone Hut via Bull Mound, 3 hours Day 3 Walk back to carpark along the lower part of Dobsons Loop and Puffer Saddle 4 hours.
A small group of three planned to complete the Southern Crossing one March weekend. We were all set to catch a mid Friday arvo train from Wellington to Waikanae, meet Kapiti Coast Shuttles for a ride to Otaki Forks, and head to either Field or Kime Hut for the night. Early Friday morning a storm rolled in flooding areas of the Wellington region and the Southern Tararuas got hammered, forecast for worse, by both wind and rain. Regretfully mid afternoon the shuttle was cancelled.
Two of us decided we still wanted to get out for the weekend, we were already packed after all. We recruited a new third and after a quick bit of research set off to Levin Saturday morning, where the weather was better, and decided on Waiopehu Hut.
We signed in the DoC book and saw a working bee was heading to the hut. We wondered if we should have bought tents (we had bedrolls), decided to risk it, and set off.
We knew this track was known for being a bit of a mud pit. We were pleasantly surprised there was not that much mud, it had been a dry summer, although where there was mud there was a lot – I can imagine it lives up to its rep in winter.
Views long Waiopheu track Image Credit to Marty
After a day of all uphill, on arrival at the hut we were treated to stunning views, including Mt Taranaki, several other trampers, and a working bee of only 2, to our surprise. We claimed beds, had some miso soup, cracked open the wine and asked for a paintbrush each. We got to work helping stain the exterior of the hut a deep green, while discussing the day, other trips, and the working bees tasks.
Kiwi Ingenuity – a new use for a walking pole
Mount Taranaki from the deck of Waiopehu Hut
The following day we set off uphill each carrying a couple of waratahs (track markers) about a kilometre from the hut to be set out by the working bee later on that day. Man they are heavy! I gained a new appreciation for those markers that day.
Finished product
The way we headed – Waiopehu, Twin Peak, Richards Knob, Gable End – creates a loop back to the car park, the last section following the Ohau river. Overall a beautiful weekend loop trip with a lot of variety and very easy logistics.
Logistics
Day 1 Park at the end of Poads Road, Levin Walk anticlockwise to Waiopehu Hut, 4 hours
Day 2 Continue uphill to loop back down to the car at Poads Road, 4 hours.
Note: the track conditions were good. Be prepared for this tramp to take significantly longer in muddy conditions.
A solid group of 4 set off in October 2018 meeting in beautiful Queenstown. After picking up pre-purchased gas canisters at Torpedo 7 we walked around the lake, enjoyed a beer, purchased last minute items at 4Square (Backcountry meals are a bargain here) and stopped in at DoC. We were lucky the avalanche risk had reduced enough to open up the track – it had been closed – and that ice axes and crampons could be left behind.
The next morning we met early at Fergs Bakery, the only coffee shop open before 7am for takeaway breakfast and coffee before getting on the bus. Little did we know this bus is the tourist bus to Milford Sound so we were treated to educational commentary along the way. After arriving in Te Anau we were promptly greeted by Ally (Te Anau Transfers) who took us to the Kepler Carpark. Although this is a great walk, it was just out of season and a long weekend, so we were eager to get on the track. If you’re not in a hurry it is possible to walk to the track start from Te Anau – adding around an hour and a half to your day.
Day 1
We walked along beautiful bays under beech forest, each bay more beautiful than the last, then started climbing the hill. Although it was late October we were all glad it wasn’t mid summer as it got very hot under the canopy.
Out of nowhere the forest stopped and temperature plummeted, and we saw snow covered mountains ahead instead of a glistening sapphire lake.
On arrival at Luxmore Hut we claimed beds and after replenishing energy levels went to explore Luxmore Caves – a must do – before watching the sunset from the track to the caves.
View from above Luxmore Hut
Day 2
At the evening briefing at Luxmore Hut the year around wardens told us that chances of crossing the tops was going to be 50/50, and if you wanted to do it to leave early. So on day 2 we were those people who set alarms for 5.30am. We crossed no trouble but decided against summiting Mt Luxmore, the view and danger would not have been worth it and we still had a reasonable amount of snow to pass through.
A few kea followed us and showed off, and we saw Whio at Iris Burn Falls (including ducklings!) so a rather successful day.
Day 3
The last day of our trip was similar to the first, walking along the lakeshore under beautiful forest, but with more vegetation variety and a wetland. A cute DoC Hut is a short side trip away in Shallow Bay, a worthy trip if you have the time. We finished the trip a day early at Rainbow Reach, missing the last 9.5km, to enable one of our party to return to Queenstown early.
Contingency Day – Day 4
We had planned for a contingency hut day. Our day was well spent cycling the Lake 2 Lake Te Anau to Manapouri cycleway, which was well worth the trip. You cycle one way and get picked up at the other end. After the ride we were kindly dropped at Rainbow Reach so we could walk back to Te Anau and officially finish the Kepler Track. After a quick swim in the lake and shower at the holiday park we had stayed at the night before we caught the Intercity bus back to Queentown.
Notes:
Luxmore Hut, capacity 54, had 90 people turn up one night while we were on the track. Be prepared and take a bedroll out of season.
Logistics:
Day 1: After work fly WLG – ZQN, overnight in Queenstown (Tahuna Pod Hostel was a fantastic base, had a great sleep in the individual pod beds)
Day 2: Intercity Bus Queenstown to Te Anau. Shuttle to track start with Te Anau Transfers (Ally is fantastic – very flexible – we got picked up a day early no trouble at all). Overnight at Luxmore Hut. 14km.
Day 3: Overnight at Iris Burn Hut 15km.
Day 4: Finish at Rainbow Reach and were picked up a day early by Te Anau Transfers – there is cell phone reception at Moturau Hut, stunning location but watch out for the mosquitos! 22km.
Day 5: Contingency Day – 28km Cycle Lake to Lake Te Anau to Manapouri, Dropped at at Rainbow Reach and walked back to Te Anau. Intercity Bus back to Queenstown. 9.5km
Day 6: Fly back to Wellington (first flight may allow you to work this day if necessary).
Post courtesy of Laressa. Photos by Laressa & Shayne.
Wellington Tramping Group 