Love the hills, especially when there is snow! I'm always looking for a new challenge and am happy to encourage like-minded souls to join me on an adventure.
View all posts by Julian →
With a great weather forecast the weekend it was too good not to be out in the hills.
The trip was posted on Meetup and there were no sign ups! To be fair I did not expect any given the description. But it was really sad that no one signed up for the Dorest Ridge or Waiopehu trips.
WTG has over 3150 members but most seem to be virtual trampers who only sign up for urban day walks 🙄
Visited: Waiopehu Hut, Oriwa Water Tank, Mid Otaki Hut, Dracophyllum Hut, Te Matawai Hut, South Ohau Hut, Rabbits Flat Biv.
Day One
I headed up to Poads Road near Levin after work on Friday night, filled in the intentions book at the track start and started walking at 16:44.
Waiopehu Hut for Sunset
It’s a fairly uneventful walk and I arrive at Waiopehu Hut at 19:29
Day 2
Most of the route in new territory for me and I’m worried about the leatherwood. I depart the hut at 8:10 and leave the trail at Waiopehu summit to be confronted by a wall of the bloody stuff. After some back tracking and faffing about I find that I can get past the worst of it by skirting about to the left.
It soon clears into a nice forest ridge line which is easy to follow and marked with pink ribbons
10:03 and I’m at the Oriwa ridge water tank. I knew about this in advance, it’s a great spot to hydrate and if you’re into hut bagging I’d say it has more kudos then some of the unofficial hunter bivs. Many of which are little more then bush litter (more about that later).
Oriwa Watertank
After the watertank there’s a boggy section and more leatherwood to get past. I found that heading around to the left was the easiest passage.
Waaaah 😰 😭
From Oriwa I leave the beaten track and head off down the ridge for the 680 meter drop down to the Otaki river. Whilst there is a bit of a trail to start with it is not marked and soon becomes hard to keep to the ridge line. I find myself off course and sidling over tree fall, so go back to basics and get the compass out which serves me well.
Project Kaka Markers
About 200 vertical meters above the river there are blue markers left from project Kaka. It becomes much easier to follow from this point.
I’m soon in the river and spot a couple of hinds ahead of me.
Deer
Mid Otaki Hut
Mid Otaki Hut
It’s a super sweet spot and I really wanted to stay longer. It’d make a great spot to camp as group overnight trip.
Mid Otaki Hut Veiw
As it was I spent 35 minutes for lunch and got up to the usual shenanigans with Byrus.
Roar!
After lunch it was time to head back up the river. It was stinking hot and I was not really in a rush so found a nice swimming hole to cool down in.
It’s easy travel up the river and from what I understand it’s a good (easier) option to follow it all the way up and come out at Te Matawai Hut. But my mission was to get to Dracophyllum Hut (Biv) whilst the TA trail remains reasonably quiet thanks to Covid 19 🙂
Blue Ribbons up the ridge
There are blue ribbons for the first 100 meters up the ridge which is encouraging as It shows its been travelled. To be fair they, are not needed to navigate as the ridge is a razor blade with big drops down on both sides. It soon calms down and its a nice climb (OK a slog) all the way up to Dracophyllum.
Dracophyllum Biv
I arrive at 16:16 and have a quick break. It’s too early to call it a day and I don’t want any TA walkers turning up to make me yawn. I have a quick flick through the hut book and it’s full of ‘TA SOBO’
TA SOBO 🙄
I add my entry and write ‘Not TA’.
It’s great to be back on the tops.
Mount Crawford Looking Majestic
I can’t get enough of it I can see Mount Crawford and Maungahuka to the south, Carkeek, Thompson and Lancaster to my east and even get Ruaphehu and Taranaki to the North.
Park River with Arete in the clouds
The Park river below begs to be explored, but that’ll have to wait for a future trip. I’m toying with heading up to Arete Biv for the night, but its in the clouds again and that’s a deal breaker.
I arrive at the Pukematawai Junction and 18:34. There is still heaps of daylight left to get down to Te Matawai so I simply sit there and marvel at at the views.
Byrus at the Pukematawai Junction
I finally head down to the hut for the night an arrive just as the sun sets.
I’ve not see a sole all day so it’s good to have some company. There are a group of guys who are heading up to Thompson the next day. One of which is the great grandson of Mr Thompson himself. We have a good yarn about the history of the Tararua Ranges before calling it a night.
I depart at 7:40 and am at South Ohau Hut 50 minutes later. I get chatting to guy called Rob who is hunting there for the weekend, he has his family along for the trip.
He’s a good chap who volunteers for LandSAR. It turns out that he built the Mid Otaki Hut. It was originally a garden shed which is why it’s so different from the usual offerings. I also get some good intel about other routes up from the Otaki river.
He checks that I’ve filled my intentions into the hut book which is always good to see.
After 30 mins of nattering it’s time to get my feet wet again. It’s good progress until I decide to stop for another swim.
I then decide to tick Rabbits Flat biv off the list.
Rabbits Flat Biv
It’s little more then rubbish left by hunters. It really needs to be cleaned up and removed!
I’m back at the car for 12:15 and head to the Ice Breaker outlet in Otaki to replace the undies that Byrus has chewed up. 60% off today so I’m happy. It’s an easy day and I’m home for lunch.
Route and Splits
Day 1
Poads Road 16:44
Waiopehu Hut 19:29
Total Time: 2 hours 45 mins
Day 2
Day 2 splits
Waiopehu Hut 08:10
Oriwa Water Tank 10:03
Oriwa 10:25 (Took time to get past the leatherwood!)
Mid Otaki Hut 12:39 to 13:16 for Lunch
Dracophyllum Hut 16:16
Pukematawai Junction 18:34 (Sit and enjoy views for 20 mins)
Park the van up at the emergency car park and run over the Slip to Otaki Forks…
08:02 Start at the bridge and go clockwise towards Waitewaewae Hut. 45 mins in (08:47) I get to the path split. Decision time, explore the unknown old slip track, or take the horrible track above the slip that I have no love for?
I go with the slip option. 8 minutes later and I’m thinking I’ve made a mistake.
Big Slip on the YTYY track
It’s pretty clear that I’m not going to sidle across this one, I try climbing up the side to go over the top but it’s taking too much effort. I’m trying to be efficient with my energy today. It’s nothing but thick bush and I’m pulling trees out as soon as I get close to the edge!
Now there are a couple of blog posts about passing up over this slip which I had scanned over before i left, but these are both over 8 years old and I think the slip has grown since then.
To preserve my skin I decide to put my gloves and gaiters on to protect myself from the sharp rocks. I smash and slide down through the bush and eventually pop out onto the lower half of the slip which has a more forgiving gradient. 25 minutes later and I’ve stopped faffing around.
Waitatapia Stream
At the bottom is the Waitatapia Stream.
The way around the slip!
It’s a pleasant spot but I don’t have time to linger. I follow it up stream and soon find the old track. It’s slippy under foot so it’s slow going, river travel is never fast. I think the new (shit) track would have saved me heaps of time but I’m all good with the adventure.
09:42 and I find an old steam engine
I’m soon distracted again as I spot a possum. It scurries up a tree to escape. I pick up a rock and knock it out of the tree on my first shot. Whilst killing possums is always high on the agenda I have to remind myself that this is not the days mission. This one will keep and I take solace in the knowledge that I’ve already killed one this year so am still being a good kiwi.
11:38 and Byrus has finally bagged YTYY Hut
Waitewaewae Hut
I think this has to be the worst hut in the Tararuas! There are 4 lazy bums inside who are still in their sleeping bags. It’s like a bedroom full of unmotivated, depressed teenagers.
One French lad says hello and talks about to walking to Parawai Lodge. He asks if I’m staying the night! “Hell no, it’s a shit hole” I reply before engaging my filter! I have an early lunch and am out of there asap.
11:38 and I leave the river behind for the slog up the hill.
It’s a nice day on the tops
14:05 and I’ve made it to Junction Knob. 360° views which you never get tired of. I can see many peaks which I know. Arete, Banister, Mitre, Broken Axe, McGregor and Mount Holdworth, Later in the day Hector comes into frame too. I also spot Park forks and Dorset Creek which I had ventured down the previous weekend…
Although I should be paying attention to where I place my feet I keep getting distracted and end up flat on my face a couple of times.
Anderson Memorial Hut
14:38 and Byrus bags this second hut of the trip and I have a second lunch.
16:52 and I reach Aokaparangi. I feel like I’m slowing down. I’m not used to going this fast for this long and I’m starting to question my endurance.
I note that the DOC sign says Maungahuka hut 3-4 hours (5 mins to Aokap Biv junction)
5 minutes later at the Junction the next sign reads 2 hours 40 mins to Maungahuka. It’s lunacy. Normally the times get harder to beat the deeper you get into the Tararuas, yet this is the easiest 1 hour 20 you’ll ever do!
I leave my pack and run down to check the biv out.
17:05 and I’m at the Biv and am greeted by a black goat. I give it the devil salute and it disappears into the bush.
Aokaparangi Hut
It’s a super sweet spot and a very spacious biv (OK the sign says Hut). Byrus has his photo taken and I have another quick break.
The toilet is pleasant too now that we are away from the volume of crap created by the TA Walkers.
17:30 and I’m back on the main trail after my little side trip.
Soon I can see Maungahuka hut it the distance. it looks like a long way to go.
One last push on tired legs over Wright and Simpson and I’m at Maungahuka for 19:18.
Byrus bags hut #4
I had told myself that if I got there by 5pm then I’d push on and do the whole loop in one day, but it was not to be this time.
I think I could achieve it with a lighter pack without the over-night gear and a bit more training. It’s still a big commitment to make that decision.
The hut is empty. I wash myself, eat, then sleep.
Day 2
It’s a white out and the wind has picked up. Not exactly what the forecast had promised but not unexpected either with it being the Tararua Ranges.
I leave the hut at 07:10 and am layered up.
I managed to lose the track once heading up over Tunui and have to turn back finding myself faced with a 100 meter vertical drop below my feet. It’s only a few meters off, but the poles are not easy to spot when it’s rough.
It’s not a day to admire the views and get great photos! In fact it feels very sinister. I have a moment where I feel like I’m being watched, there is a black figure ahead looming in the mist that I’d subconsciously noticed. I then see it’s just a large rock. It’s not the reaper, but it’s a good reminder to be careful.
Once I drop down below McIntosh I’m below the clouds and delayer.
The last climb up to Bridge peak felt slow, am I tired from yesterday? Probably.
I finally get to the highest point of the loop at 10:00 and i’m back on more familiar ground.
I’m happy that I have enough bounce left to run down the hill.
Field Hut
Field hut
10:52 and I’m at Field hut. No need for Byrus to get a photo here for his Hut Bagging collection, as he’s been here many times before.
There is a group of 4 guys outside. We exchange tales for 10 minutes. They seem amazed that it was only 4 hours ago that I was at Maungahuka. It’s taken them 2 days. They joke that I’ll be out for lunch and indeed I am. I get back to Otaki Forks bridge at 11:57.
I then walk back over the Blue Bluff slip to warm down.
Route and Splits
Day 1
Otaki Forks 08:02
Slip 08:55
Other side of Slip 09:20 (Heaps of faffing!)
YTYY 11:38
Junction Knob 14:06
Nichols Hut 14:38
16:55 Left Track to visit Aokaparangi Biv
Aokaparangi Biv 17:06 (break and a snoop)
Back on trail 17:30
Maungahuka Hut 19:18
Total time: 13 hours 16 mins (inc extra 35 mins for Aokap)
In the hope of not having another dull blog post 🥱 😴 we have decided to mix things up and write one day each.
Still, there is a fair bit of content so I recommend grabbing a cup of tea, coffee, beer or wine or some other poison before you continue…
Day 1 by Kat
Poads Road to Te Matawai
My trip started with the 7:58 train from Wellington to Waikanae along with Marty. Laressa and Julian hopped on at other stations along the way and by 9:20 we were in the shuttle chatting to our driver Colin. We arrived at the Poads Road entrance to the Tararua forest park and started walking across the farmland about 10:15.
Start at Poads Road
The first part of the walk is nicely undulating through the trees alongside the river. After about an hour we got to the turn off to Waiopehu hut and a little bit further down the track we crossed the swing bridge. The options from here to Te Matawai hut are Gable End ridge, which at the worst of times has mud up to your knees, and going up the river to South Ohau hut.
Kat, Julian & Marty
Since some of us had never been up the river and the river levels were very low we opted to go via South Ohau. It’s a very pleasant walk up in good weather.
Heading up the Ohau Stream
We crossed the river a number of times with no trouble and only one of us (cough me) took an unintentional swim. Everyone else opted for the intentional swim slightly further up the river in a nice swimming hole where we also had some lunch.
South Ohau hut is on a great spot sitting above the river. It’s impossible to miss. We stopped for a quick break so I could get the rocks out of my shoes and continued up Yeates track just at the back of the hut. The first section is a classic, steep tararuas slog up a few hundred meters but the track is in good condition and easy to follow so we were up on the ridge in no time. From where it meets the track to Te Matawai it’s about half an hour to the hut.
We got to Te Matawai just after 5pm and tossed up the idea of squeezing four people into Arere biv but decided to stay. The hut is not in the best condition and I hope that it’s on DOCs maintenance list.
Between them, Julian and Marty thought the optimum time for boiling water was twenty minutes before the pasta went in but other than that the pasta and anchovies dinner was a great success. The day ended with a brief mouse chase after one was found in the bunk room but it slipped past the waiting Julian and out through the back of the fire place.
Day 2 by Marty
Te Matawai Hut to Carkeek Hut
After the night chasing the mice in Te Matawai hut we rose to gorgeous sunshine and to find our food bags fortunately not ravaged by the resident rodents.
With cooking gas supply and hut faulty tap control concerns between the group, we negotiated cooker interference by others and how to stop the broken tap from continuously running without too much conflict and the ladies were given numbers by Julian.
We departed the hut at 8.30am after a thorough clean that clearly had not been undertaken by many of the previous recent residents.
Te Matawai Hut in the distance
After a gentle stroll in the peaks morning shade, from the hut to Pukematawai peak, we took a left turn off the Te Araroa Trail to summit Arete peak @ 1505m (10.55am), I think this is my first ever 1500 peak summit in the Tararuas, yay!
Pukematawai Junnction
We wandered down to Arete 2-person hut/biv, mindful to not veer the seemingly easy way right (best to keep left and follow the marker poles) just
saying…….
Arete Biv – Extended Morning Tea
After an extended morning tea, we began our decent to get on to Carkeek ridge. Julian stopped us at the 1st next peak and reiterated the due diligence navigation expectations that we all must be aware of in the environment we were in. It woke me up, as my first time here, I realised I was reliant/lazy and not fully aware of my responsibilities for myself, thank you Julian.
So, we did some navigation skills, which made me think, more independent and respect for where we were.
Navigation
So just another 1 hour up the road we stopped for lunch at the intersection to either go South-East to Tarn ridge, or right onto Carkeek Ridge Hut via Lancaster, Thompson & Carkeek peaks to Carkeek hut for the night (Laressas Northern Crossing little extra). There was a little rock climbing in sections over these peaks, I had the joy of Julian behind and above me scrambling over the loose rocks as I sidled around…..
Carkeek – Rock Climbing Section
At 1.30pm we set off up and down over the afore mentioned peaks in knee/waist high tussock/Speargrass/Leatherwood down Carkeek ridge started to take its toll on me towards day end.
Headind Down Carkeek Ridge
Come 4.30pm we met 2 English trail runners at Carkeek hut who had many a running tale to tell with which we all keenly listened with interest, in particular their lightweightedness!
Although to my great delight, they still managed to carry fairylights to light up the hut, it’s a thing! Now we all know it’s not just me!
After a wonderful shared experimental homemade dehydrated curry meal created by Kat we enjoyed a gorgeous goblin forest sunset and many a photo with mist over Mt Crawford to the South-West, Kapiti Island and South Island ranges in the distance to dream of, scrambled eggs for breakfast, and the rest day ahead.
Sun setting at Carkeek
Sunset from Carkeek
Day 3 by Laressa
Our group of 4 started the morning with our only shared brekky of the trip, scrambled eggs (Backcountry so not as exciting as it sounds!) and had a leisurely morning before setting off at 830am.
Carkeek Hut
Our group split in two, Julian and Kat went off track adventuring, while Marty and I returned to the Northern Crossing route, to cross the Waiohine Pinnacles and Tarn Ridge, to reunite with the others at Tarn Ridge Hut.
Morning view from Carkeek
As this was our “rest day” (only 6hrs of tramping) Marty and I kept a leisurely pace stopping to identify peaks, admire the view, snap photos, and take several much needed water breaks. It was possibly the hottest day I’ve experienced in the Tararuas, a bit of wind would have been nice!
Marty crossing Carkeek Ridge
After 3.5 hours up Carkeek Ridge (returning the way we came the day before) we stopped for lunch before tackling the pinnacles. Anyone who has tramped with me before knows heights and I don’t mix, so to say I was scared was an understatement. Feeling less pressure with only one (patient!) companion and a calm day (i.e. no needing to keep moving to stay warm!!) I challenged myself not to commence a crawl…. and am delighted to say I stayed upright(ish) and didn’t resort to all 4s!
The feeling was phenomenal, I felt i could tackle anything! I may have celebrated slightly too early – just like a false summit there is a false ‘end’, however the hardest part was done and the rest was easy in comparison. Yes that is the track, and yes you really do need to cross it! Unfortunately the loose rocks move under your feet at every step, eeek! Don’t look down!
Waiohine Pinnacles
I think I nearly skipped to the hut, possibly to Martys disgust, as it turned out this day was the toughest for him. We arrived at Tarn Ridge Hut at 330pm, just after running out of water (3L each!). We claimed mattresses for our companions and went to the ridge armed with snacks to await their arrival.
Tarn Ridge Hut
Tarn Ridge Hut (take a bedroll, all but 5 mattresses are mouldy!) We had agreed if Kat and Julian didn’t arrive by 7pm we’d go looking, however at about 545pm we caught sight of them along Dorset Ridge, and they joined us with 30min to spare.
Julian & Kat arriving at Tarn Ridge
After refuelling on snacks and dinner of miso soup (with extras) we returned to the ridge to watch the sunset – almost as beautiful as the night before.
Sunset from Tarn Ridge
Day 3 by Julian
Carkeek Hut To Tarn Ridge Hut
Kat was keen to visit Dorset Ridge Hut after missing out last year. I wanted to escape Marty’s “Dad jokes” for a day so had the diplomacy to say I was curious about about the gorge south of Park Forks and finding where the trail to McGregor Biv begins.
Marty and Laressa would go via the tops and meet back up with us at Tarn Ridge Hut at the end of the day.
Given the nature of our route it was nice to have some solid company for an unknown off track mission.
Carkeek Hut to Tarn Ridge Hut via Park Forks and Dorset Creek
We left Carkeek hut at 8:30 and headed down to Park Forks via a gorgeous goblin forest.
Goblin Forest behind Carkeek hut
The track is reasonably easy to follow down the ridge and we took it in turns to lead the way. One stuff up each was pretty good going as it’s super easy to wander down a deer trail and lose the true ridge.
Kat spent much of the day educating me about deer shit. I now know how to tell how fresh it is, along with the difference between stag and hind stool samples. Of course, Byrus already knows about that.
We arrived at Park Forks at 10:05
Park Forks
From Park forks there is the option to head directly up to Dorset Ridge, or up to Nichols Hut which I have done in the past. The “lost” track to Nichols is not a route I’d recommend unless you like getting roughed up!
We headed down the Gorge to Dorset Creek and Byrus took his annual bath.
The river was clean!
The Gorge took a good hour to travel and even with the water being low the undies were soaked by the time we’d got to Dorset Creek. We had a break and I went for a swim in some very cold but refreshing water.
The start of the Track to McGregor was easy to spot and I dare say I’ll come down that way sometime in the future.
Dorset Creek
It was slow going up the river. By the time we had got through the Dorset Creek gorge we looking at the clock knowing we were not going as fast as expected. We’d promised the others that we’d be at Tarn Ridge by 7pm. Not wanting them to worry we knew we had to get a move on!
We considered leaving the river and smashing our way up the ridge to intercept the old track from Park Forks, but this too was unknown territory and could prove problematic! We decided to stay in the creek and tough it out.
After 4.5 hours in the water climbing and jumping over boulders, rocks, slips and trees we finally left the river and found the track up to Dorset Ridge Hut.
Spot the marker for the path!
It’s a pretty savage climb up, but the path is still in use and there are ribbons to help you keep on the ridge. It could be a very interesting one to go down.
I nearly dragged a group down that way on a previous trip and was feeling grateful that we went out on the tops on that occasion! I suggest avoiding it if you don’t trust your navigation skills.
Kat climbing up the ridge in camo
16:30 and we finally pop out of the scub to find Dorset Ridge hut.
Dorest Ridge Hut
It was sweet having enough time to take a break and enjoy Dorset Ridge Hut. It’s not one that many people visit and has one of the freshest toilets I know of in the Tararua Ranges.
Dorset Ridge Hut with Broken Axe backdrop
The track on the tops along Dorset Ridge is not well groomed. I was getting over the cutty grass which was constantly reminding my my knees were exposed.
About 1 hour from Tarn ridge we spotted Laressa and Marty waving from the distance. It was a stunning day with little wind so we made the usual animal noises which were heard and returned.
Dorset Ridge Tarn
We arrived at 18:35 and were greeted with high fives and chocolate 🙂
Still, I’m sure this is more entertaining than a badly worded yawn fest…
Here are a couple of photos:
Mitre, although Julian is trying to pretend it is HectorPeggy’s tits. (Ask Marty why he thinks all hills look like boobs!)Julian fell off the track 🤣🤣🤣
Recently Laressa and I did the Kapakapanui loop as an Evening stroll which we posted on Meetup. Some of the comments were interesting as such as “Wow! 4 hours! You’l be running! lol”
Actually, we didn’t need to run, we just didn’t do any faffing and simply chatted the whole time without pushing it that hard.
Whilst I understand that DOC times list the loop as 6 – 8 hours, the reality is that it’s a walk on the outer edges of the Tararua Ranges so the times are very generous and aimed at your casual weekend walker, not hardened trampers.
It did get me thinking how long it would take to run so I set off to give it a crack today. My goal was to get it done in under 3 hours, but I was not sure if I’d be able to nail it first attempt.
Junction, I’m going anti-clockwise this time 07:09
I set off early to avoid the midday heat (plus I had other commitments that day) and picked the Anti-clockwise direction to avoid running down the steep bit.
The path is in great condition, probably the best I’ve ever seen it. Massive respect to DOC or whoever has cleared the trail up to the trig, it used to be an over-grown mess. Seeing where your feet need to be placed makes a big difference.
The Trig 08:25Stunning day up on the tops whilst the coast on the other side is still shrouded in clouds!
Very little running was done before I got to the trig, and I cursed each time my shoelace came undone wasting precious time faffing around with them. I also had to take my back pack off to access my water bottle. Such a rookie move! I have a bladder so really should know better.
None of the usual princess action avoiding the mud. The feet are getting mucky.Kapakapanui Hut for some water! 08:48
I think I passed someone I know on the way who called me a crazy idiot. Sorry I was too zoned to return the compliment, plus I was about 20 meters past by the time I registered as I raggy-dolled down the path 😔
Back down to the river 09:31Back to the car 09:40 Loop done 🙂
Total loop time 2 hours and 38 minutes. Not a bad for a 13km morning jog and my shoes are clean thanks to the river at the end 😁
The alarm goes off. I crawl out of bed and make an early coffee before hitting the road.
The plan is to get to Whakapapa Village by 09:30, meet up with Stirling, (my old tramping buddy who is now getting on in years and lives in a retirement village in Taupo), and to start walking by 10:00.
As it happens we both arrive early and we head off at 09:06 in an anti-clockwise direction.
I’m not sure how I’m going to get on with this one as it’s my first decent tramp since September when I tore the MCL in my left knee. We decide on the conservative option of doing the loop in 3 days.
As Waihohonu Hut needs booking (and it’s a last-minute trip) we plan the route to avoid spending the night there. We take air mattresses and are prepared to sleep on the deck if needed.
If you do any research on the trail then you’ll find the word “undulations” until you’re blue in the face. This simply means that you go up and down heaps! The climbs are small and regular with heaps of time to recover before you go again 🙄 It’s not a big deal unless you’re unfit! There is some entertaining reading here if you want a giggle…
Day 1
Round the Mountain Track
The weather was good but there are a couple of patches of snow which is always a bonus. It’s a good reminder that you need to be prepared even in summer!
Snow 😀We missed out on the real snow. This was the action at Rangipo Hut which had sadly melted by the time we arrived!
There are a number of unbridged streams to cross. With the previous days rain, I had some fun jumping over them to keep my feet dry.
Lake Surprise
We arrived at Mangaturturu Hut at 14:48 and were the first ones there so quickly claimed our bed spots.
Officially it’s a 10 bunk hut but it only has 9 mattresses! Later it quickly fills up and we end up with about 21 people at the hut!
It’s easy to access from the road end which explains why it’s so busy. One group is talking about how painful the upcoming “1.5-hour” road section is on your knees and feet and offers us a ride in their car to avoid it.
We politely decline as it’s going to be a horrendous amount of faffing and will no doubt be less painful than the lame conversation. Inevitably it will be much quicker to simply walk!
Day one times:
09:06 Left Car Park
14:11 Lake Surprise
14.48 MangaturturuHut
Day 2
We’re up at a reasonable hour and are walking by 07:10
Departing Mangaturturu HutWaterfalls after Mangaturuturu hut (A tad to early for a swim)
The road section ends up taking 40 minutes and our knees hold up 🤣 In fact my knee is great, I’m loving being able to jump again after all the rehab exercises I’ve been doing for the past 4 months.
I was keen on an alternative route across the ski field and down to Blyth but we decide to keep things simple this time.
WaItonga Falls
We arrive at Mangeahuehu Hut at 11am and have an early lunch.
After Lunch, we spot some people at the bridge below.
View down to Wahianoa Bridge
By the time we get to the bridge the group ahead has only made it halfway up the hill on the other side. We soon catch them and overtake.
We arrive at Rangipo hut at 15:25.
The day was an easy one as it remained overcast so did not get too hot.
Rangipo hut (no snow left 😢)
The group we overtook arrived at the hut about 2 hours after we arrive. One chap says “You made me feel like I was standing still going up that hill”. To which I replied,”You were standing still!” 🤣
Again the hut fills up with heaps of late arrivals. I think we had 22 inside. Interestingly there we no entries for the previous day in the hut book!
One annoying twat stinks the hut out with his “deep heat” 🤧 Another lights the fire and makes it super hot so I’m forced to open the windows which makes things entertaining later!
Stirling tries to close the window by my head at about 3am after things have cooled down.
I was in a deep sleep, but his hand made some tapping a scratching sounds which results in me dreaming about a rat or a possum and results in me attacking his hand and throwing my pillow across the room!
Day two times:
07.10 Depart from Mangaturturu Hut
08:10 Join Ohakune Mountain Road
08:50 Finish road section and back on the track
09:20 Waitonga Falls
09:33 Blyth Hut Juction
11:00 Mangeahuehu Hut
Early Lunch 1 hour
12:00 Leave Mangeahuehu Hut
14:30 Wahianoa Bridge
15:25 Rangipo Hut
Day 3
A sunny day with great views at last. We are up first and claim the table before anyone else rises. We’re off by 6:30 with zero faffing!
Sunrise from Rangipo
The Desert section up to the Whangaehu river is a real treat.
Whangaehu bridge
Whangaehu bridge
Opinepango Springs
We arrive at Waihohonu hut at 09:50. It’s not even time for elevenses, let alone lunch!
Waihohonu Hut
It’s a stinking hot day so I decide to head down to the river for a quick dip!
Good Swimming spot (No selfie as I skinny-dipped and that’d just be wrong!)
We have a very relaxed lunch at leave the hut at 11:10. 3 hours and 15 minutes later and we’re done and I’m planning on heading up Mount Taranaki to see the Sunrise for the New Year.
Day 3 times:
06:30 Depart from Rangipo Hut
07:03 Whanaehu River Bridge
07: 56 Cross Tukino Village Road
09:50 Waihohonu Hut
Stop for a swim and have a crazy early lunch break
11:10 Depart Waihohonu Hut
14:25 Back at car
Times and distance.
Stirling’s GPS had the distance down as 70km in total but according to DOC it’s just 66.2km. We walked a total of 19 hours over 3 days (clock only stopped for lunch breaks).
Heaps of time left to relax and plenty of daylight hours left in the summer.
Making this a 2-day trip is very doable or making the loop bigger to combine the Northern Circuit over 3 days could also be a good option.
It’s a stunning route and one I’d happily do again.
I’m always curious about how people rate themselves when signing up to the group. Most people are realistic, but it often sets alarm bells ringing when someone claims to be a grade 4 or 5 without giving any recent examples to back this up.
Now I’m not having a pop at anyone, but it is important to be realistic. As an event host I need these grades to be honest, otherwise I’m either going to end up babysitting for the weekend or worse, get put in a dangerous situation.
The question is: “What is the highest grade trip you are comfortable with?”
It is not, “what do you aspire to be, or used to be when you were still fit?”
List Your Skills
You need the total package, it’s more then just fitness. Bush-craft skills such as navigation and first aid are also required. If you are doing hard trips then you should be concerned with the safety of yourself and others.
I always roll my eyes when I see a profile where someone is listed as a grade 4 or 5 yet they don’t list any skills. It makes it difficult to evaluate if you are realistic about your abilities, therefor you’ll probably be a liability!
Good past trip examples?
The examples are mainly based on the Tararua Ranges as it’s on our door step. If you’ve not spent much time there then be humble and modest. They can be extremely punishing compared to other places you may have walked.
Generally speaking I don’t rate “Great walks” as anything above a “Grade 3” they are all easy to navigate and most have manicured paths.
As for the Tongiriro crossing, just remember that it is only a day walk (light pack etc) and whilst spectacular it’s not the most challenging trip if you have nice conditions.
Personally I have myself down as a 4.5 because I do like to get out of my comfort zone and see how far I can push it. There is always room to improve.
I know a number of event hosts who are reluctant to host trips as they have had to deal with people who have signed up for trips that are beyond their current grade. It’s never much fun when you have to carry someones pack, or have a needlessly long day due to people not reading the description or being realistic.
Thanks for reading and for keeping your profile up-to-date.
Snowy hut is one of those unofficial huts in the Tararuas, although it is actually marked on the map if you know where to look. I decided to post a last-minute trip to make the most of the good weather on Saturday.
This will be a tad wordy as I was intent on learning as much as possible rather than taking photos, but I still got a couple of good shot of The Shit Weasel doing his usual happy epic stuff.
I love how carried away he gets, but I’ll point out that you don’t need to rush out and purchase any gear. I’d even suggest not spending your gold on any gear until after you have done the course. This way you’ll have a better understanding about what equipment you actually need, along with what is suitable for the trips you intend to do.
The NZ Apline Club will hire out all the gear you need at exceptionally good rates if you become a member. Typically $5.00 per item per week, or everything for $25.00.
Not all Level One courses are equal
The course is so much more then just learning to kick steps, walk with crampons and basic use of an ice axe.
To add to Marty’s post, we also spent time discussing weather and avalanche hazards/conditions.
Monitoring the local conditions a week before any mountain trip has become second nature, the more you time spend doing this the more aware you become of what risks are and how to manage them.
Whilst it’s really important to know how to use a transceiver and practice doing avalanche search rescues, it’s something which you never really want to have to face in a real life situation. It’s really important that the group makes good decisions, has good plans, along with knowing when to turn back or postpone a trip.
The NZ Alpine Club Level one is simply top notch. They had one instructor for every two pupils, there is a huge amount of knowledge to be learnt and my little pea brain simply tried to take in as much of that as it could.
Finally… Level Two
Level two builds upon what you learnt you level one and adds some rope and climbing skills.
Theory Night
We meet in Bivouac Outdoor where we get to meet each other, do introductions, run through what we need for the weekend and practice tying knots.
One of the group puts his hand up and asks “What is an Anchor?”
I try not to laugh, even though it’s not really funny! Why would anyone sign up to a Snowcraft course without doing some basic homework? Surely you’d have done some reading and watched some videos to know what you were signing up for?
OK, I probably take things to an extreme by tying some rope to my kitchen cupboard door to practiced tying knots with my thick gloves on. Actually that’s not even half of it, I got some knots mastered using only one hand and having my eyes shut which really isn’t needed.
I don’t expect anyone to be that committed or obsessed, but not knowing what an anchor is plain and simple muppetry!
A dangerous approach
We had an interesting trip up to Mount Ruapehu as we had a car crash just before we got to Levin. Thankfully no one got hurt, but it’s well worth pointing out that the journey to the mountains (or returning) is often far more dangerous then being up there.
I’ll spare the most of details, but we managed to get another car sorted so not all was lost. We rolled in just after midnight so only missed the Friday night briefing.
My little rant…
Saturday morning and I find myself in the same group as Anchor Man!
My heart sank, he’s one of two members in my group who have done the WTMC (Wellington Tramping and Mountaineering Club) Snowcraft Level one course.
It turns out that they have not covered half of the basics which the rest of us learnt on the Alpine Club level one course. They have no avalanche awareness let alone used a transceiver before.
I have to introduce them to avalanche.net.nz/ and explain heaps of the level one stuff that they really should already know. It’s a very slow morning and I’ll make no secret about how frustrated I was. My goal was to gain as much as I could out of the weekend, yet being with these clowns was like driving a car with the handbrake on…
I’m slowly dying inside as all the other groups head outside to practice new skills whilst I’m stuck inside sucking eggs.
I’m aware that it’s not the fault of our instructors who I have nothing but praise for.
I’ve since found out that the Alpine club will not be accepting anyone from the WTMC level one course next year. Problem solved 🙂
Anchors
I quickly became aware how versatile an ice axe is. Level one only teaches you to use it to walk safely on the snow. What you learn in level two is that you can use your axe to cut groves into the snow to create an anchor. There are many types of anchors you can make depending on what the snow pack is like and what equipment you have.
Bollard Anchor (photo stolen from Tilmann)
I’m not going to explain how it all works as you really need to do the course to understand and put it into practice.
Climbing
We also got to play with some technical ice axes. Climbing with two axes allows you to tackle much steeper terrain and my inner monkey loved it.
Next I intend to improve my climbing skills. Maybe a post for the future…
If any of you are keen on doing Alpine trips next year then I recommend joining the Alpine Club. They are a super friendly bunch of folk an are very smart about how they run trips.
Feel welcome to pick my brains if you have any questions.
The Broken Axe Pinnacles are a jagged ridge line that run between the South King (1531) and McGregor (1540) in the Tararuas. The plan was to drive in from Wellington, cross them in one day, then return home…
Wellington Tramping Group 