A solid group of 4 set off in October 2018 meeting in beautiful Queenstown. After picking up pre-purchased gas canisters at Torpedo 7 we walked around the lake, enjoyed a beer, purchased last minute items at 4Square (Backcountry meals are a bargain here) and stopped in at DoC. We were lucky the avalanche risk had reduced enough to open up the track – it had been closed – and that ice axes and crampons could be left behind.

The next morning we met early at Fergs Bakery, the only coffee shop open before 7am for takeaway breakfast and coffee before getting on the bus. Little did we know this bus is the tourist bus to Milford Sound so we were treated to educational commentary along the way. After arriving in Te Anau we were promptly greeted by Ally (Te Anau Transfers) who took us to the Kepler Carpark. Although this is a great walk, it was just out of season and a long weekend, so we were eager to get on the track. If you’re not in a hurry it is possible to walk to the track start from Te Anau – adding around an hour and a half to your day.

Day 1

We walked along beautiful bays under beech forest, each bay more beautiful than the last, then started climbing the hill. Although it was late October we were all glad it wasn’t mid summer as it got very hot under the canopy.

Out of nowhere the forest stopped and temperature plummeted, and we saw snow covered mountains ahead instead of a glistening sapphire lake.

On arrival at Luxmore Hut we claimed beds and after replenishing energy levels went to explore Luxmore Caves – a must do – before watching the sunset from the track to the caves.

Day 2

At the evening briefing at Luxmore Hut the year around wardens told us that chances of crossing the tops was going to be 50/50, and if you wanted to do it to leave early. So on day 2 we were those people who set alarms for 5.30am. We crossed no trouble but decided against summiting Mt Luxmore, the view and danger would not have been worth it and we still had a reasonable amount of snow to pass through.

A few kea followed us and showed off, and we saw Whio at Iris Burn Falls (including ducklings!) so a rather successful day.

Day 3

The last day of our trip was similar to the first, walking along the lakeshore under beautiful forest, but with more vegetation variety and a wetland. A cute DoC Hut is a short side trip away in Shallow Bay, a worthy trip if you have the time. We finished the trip a day early at Rainbow Reach, missing the last 9.5km, to enable one of our party to return to Queenstown early.

Contingency Day – Day 4

We had planned for a contingency hut day. Our day was well spent cycling the Lake 2 Lake Te Anau to Manapouri cycleway, which was well worth the trip. You cycle one way and get picked up at the other end. After the ride we were kindly dropped at Rainbow Reach so we could walk back to Te Anau and officially finish the Kepler Track. After a quick swim in the lake and shower at the holiday park we had stayed at the night before we caught the Intercity bus back to Queentown.

Notes:

Luxmore Hut, capacity 54, had 90 people turn up one night while we were on the track. Be prepared and take a bedroll out of season.

Logistics:

Day 1: After work fly WLG – ZQN, overnight in Queenstown (Tahuna Pod Hostel was a fantastic base, had a great sleep in the individual pod beds)

Day 2: Intercity Bus Queenstown to Te Anau. Shuttle to track start with Te Anau Transfers (Ally is fantastic – very flexible – we got picked up a day early no trouble at all). Overnight at Luxmore Hut. 14km.

Day 3: Overnight at Iris Burn Hut 15km.

Day 4: Finish at Rainbow Reach and were picked up a day early by Te Anau Transfers – there is cell phone reception at Moturau Hut, stunning location but watch out for the mosquitos! 22km.

Day 5: Contingency Day – 28km Cycle Lake to Lake Te Anau to Manapouri, Dropped at at Rainbow Reach and walked back to Te Anau. Intercity Bus back to Queenstown. 9.5km

Day 6: Fly back to Wellington (first flight may allow you to work this day if necessary).

Post courtesy of Laressa. Photos by Laressa & Shayne.